Hardwood Tile Installation Instructions

Please see below for our installation requirements and care instructions, as well as a downloadable PDF for your convenience.
For an instructional guide on installing backsplashes, please click here.

Mirth StudioTiles are easy to install. They are constructed with a tongue and groove system which olds them into place. You have the option to glued down the tiles or float them on level, even surface. Each tile is pre-finished with an extremely durable UV cured poly-resin, so an additional topcoat is not needed after installation. The floor will be ready to walk on the same day as installation or s soon as the glue dries.

If you are handy, Mirth Studio Tiles can be installed as a DIY project.  However, because some cutting of tiles is usually required, we generally recommend having a professional install the tiles.  As there is no finishing involved, installation is inexpensive compared to solid plank flooring. The tiles are pre-finished using a UV cured poly resin that is comparable to the highest quality of any high end engineered wood flooring on the market.

 For specific installation instructions, please see below.

·       Our Tiles can be installed as a floating solution over existing floors or glued down above-grade, on-grade or below grade
·       All sub-floors must be level and clean.

Custom Hannah Childs .jpg

Floating installation :

(Which can be removed at a later date)

The tiles will be marked underneath with an “A” or “B” due to the Tongue and Groove nature of tiles. Please make sure during installation that “A” Tiles are connected with “B” tiles to insure proper installation. An “A” tile should never be installed next to another “A” tile or a “B” tile should never be installed next to another “B” tile.  

As a first step, the installer or homeowner must decide which direction the tiles will run. Tiles are normally laid either parallel or diagonal to the longest wall in the room. Most installers will snap a chalk-line down the middle of the room and work out from this center line to the perimeter walls.  A straight board nailed down against this center line can be use as a firm, straight base to begin working. Alternatively the first 4 tiles installed can be attached with double stick tape as not to damage the floors underneath. It is best to secure the first 4 tiles as a starting point to work out from. After laying the first half of the room, the board should be removed so that the other half of the room can be completed.

It is advisable to dry lay a few rows of the tiles to confirm your directional layout decision and working line. Adjustment of the working line may be necessary to ensure they are square to the room. Starting from the center and working outwards, alternate A's and B's eeping the tiles parallel to the wall and adjoined in a snug manner. Lastly, measure and make your cuts to the remaining tiles to ensure they will fit tightly to the wall. To push the tiles together tap against the edge using a hammer and wood or a rubber tapping block. Never tap directly against the edge of the tile with the metal head.

Add your trim pieces. If transitioning from another room you will need a 1/2 " transition strip, which are available from Mirth Studio tiles and can be custom painted to match your tiles.

If desired, an underlayment can be put down prior to installation but it is not necessary.

GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION

For larger spaces or permanent nstallation, follow the same directions as for the floating floor but glue each individual tile using an engineered flooring adhesive. Use the trowel recommended by the adhesive manufacturer since tooth size is important for best adherence to the sub-floor.  In most cases this will be 1/4″ x 1/8″, but always adhere to the adhesive manufacturer’s instruction. 

It is advisable to dry lay a few rows to confirm your directional layout nd working line efore glueing down the tiles. Adjustment of the working line may be necessary to ensure they are square to the room. Allow for adequate cross ventilation when working with flooring adhesive.  Snap a chalk line down the middle of the room.  Work out from this center line.

Follow adhesive instructions regarding proper set time (if any) before affixing tiles.  With trowel at a 45-degree angle, spread as much adhesive as can be covered by tiles in one hour or as recommended by the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions. Once adhesive has set per instructions, lay the first row of tiles butted up against your straight starting board. Continue laying tiles until adhesive is covered with tiles. Be careful not to move the installed tiles on the wet adhesive. Immediately remove any adhesive that gets on the tile surface by using a damp cloth or manufacturer's adhesive remover.

Jobsite Requirements

SUB-FLOORS SHOULD BE (for glue down installation):      
-Dry and well-secured, with a moisture content under 12%. The bottom side, if facing outside (like a crawl space) must be under 15% MC and a 6-mil Polyfilm placed over the dirt in the crawl space. Adequate ventilation must exist, with clearance of 18″ to 24″.
-Nailed down or screwed down every 6 inches along the joist to avoid squeaking.
-Leave 1/8″ gap around perimeter.
-Leveled by sanding or grinding down high spots and filling in low spots with an underlayment patch as necessary.
-Preferred subfloor: 3/4″ CDX grade Plywood subfloor / underlayment (Exposure 1), 4′ x 8′ sheets or 3/4″ OSB subfloor / underlayment grade, PS2 rated, sealed side down, with joist spacing of 19.2″ on center or less.   
CONCRETE FLOORS SHOULD BE:       
-Fully cured for at least 60 days.
-Installed properly with minimum 6-mil Polyfilm between concrete and ground.
-Dry all year round.

SUB-FLOORS SHOULD BE (for floating installation):      
-Subfloor must be dry and level                                                                                                                                                                  - Tiles can be installed above grade, on grade, or below grade. 

FINISHING THE JOB:   

 Reinstall base and/or quarter round moldings to cover the gaps between the last tile and the wall. Install transitions pieces such as reducer strips and T-moldings as needed. For Glue down installations do not llow any foot traffic or heavy furniture for at least 24 hours or as indicated by adhesive manufacturer’s instructions.

CARE AND MAINTENANCE:

If cared for properly our finish is guaranteed not to fade, chip, peel or yellow.                                                                          Because our hardwood  tiles are made from real wood,  they require the same cleaning methods as any other type of engineered wood flooring. Keeping your floors wept, clean, and dry on a daily basis will help them to retain their original beauty and last a long tim!  Use either a vacuum cleaner with a soft flooring attachment, or a broom or dust mop to pick up the debris. Damp mop as needed. Our tiles are water resistant but excessive water or liquid eft on a the tiles an cause damage. Wax-based cleaners, harsh detergents, or steel wool should not be used to clean engineered hardwood flooring.

ADDING DURABILITY:

Our tiles all come pre-finished with a commercial grade flooring finish. If you would like further protection for your floors for very high traffic areas or to refresh the finish over time. we recommend using Bona Traffic in the satin finish, which can be applied over your floors for added protection. Please visit www.bona.com for more information. The tiles can be screen sanded and refinished multiple times using our recommended product.  

PLEASE NOTE:
When ordering Mirth Tiles, please keep in mind that because wood is a natural product no two will be exactly alike. We think this adds to the beauty of the floors and gives them character not found in other types of manufactured tiles. Sometimes the variation is more obvious and for this reason we recommend ordering a 5% overage in case some of the tiles do not meet with your approval. The tiles are designed to be installed with cross grains and due to the tongue and groove construction, this cannot be changed. Depending on the color of the tile it may be more obvious than others. Lighter color tiles show more grain than the darker colors. We go to great lengths to send only tiles that meet our high standards but it is important to understand that wood does sometime have flaws. Sometimes the edges are rougher than others but that is because the nature of wood and not considered a defect. If you feel you have received a defective tile, please contact immediately and we will send out a replacement.